CHEMICALS
PEELS
It
doesn't help much that wrinkles are known by such face-saving euphemisms as
"smile lines" (which suggest a lifetime of good belly laughs), or
"crow's feet" (which imply experience and maturity), or "brow
furrows" (which might indicate years of deep concentration). You want them
off your face anyway.
And
today there is an extensive menu of treatment options to remove not only wrinkles,
but also other skin imperfections such as patchy pigment spots (also known as
'age spots') and scar irregularities.
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One
of the most aggressive of these options is chemical peeling or the 'Chemi-Peel'
as it is known. It involves applying an acid solution to the skin that results
in a controlled burn. As the layers of old skin flake off, the new skin that
is laid down is smoother and firmer.
Chemosurgery'
is particularly suitable for treating fine lines or shallow wrinkles such as
those around the lips, near the eyes (crow's feet) and fine creases in the cheek
area.
IS
A CHEMICAL PEEL FOR YOU?
The
ideal patient for a chemical peel has been described as the fair-skinned person
with multiple fine wrinkling brought on by years of sun exposure,
Deep peels, in particular, are not recommended for darker-skinned
or even olive-skinned people (Asians or Hispanics, among others).
In the dark-complexioned, the treatment often leaves red or dark
blotches along with whiter spots. Usually this discoloration fades after several
months, but it could last for several years.
Those with heart or kidney disease are poor risks for phenol peels
because the chemical causes irregular heartbeats, especially
if too much is applied too fast or the body can't flush it out quickly enough.
(TCA does not have this drawback).
That
is why, pre-surgery, a complete history, physical examination and urinalysis
must be done to rule out infection or damage to the kidneys. Phenol is known
for its deleterious effects on the kidneys even in normal healthy persons, particularly
if it is applied so rapidly that too much of it enters the bloodstream. If the
fine kidney tissue is destroyed due to high concentration of phenol before it
can be eliminated, the patient will develop uremic poisoning.
All
plans for chemosurgery must be abandoned if the pre-operative screening shows
evidence of abnormal kidney function or disease.
Chemosurgery must also be avoided by all patients who have diabetes
or liver disease.
In those who have herpes simplex, the trauma can cause the virus
to flare up, leading to painful sores or even vision damage
if the corneas become infected. (Taking the drug, acyclovir, before
and after the procedure, may however ward off the virus).
Those who scar easily or who develop thick "keloid"
scars are at higher risk of being marked by
the chemicals.
The phenol peel carries substantial risk for patients with certain
qualities of skin, such as skin
which has undergone radiation treatment or which has suffered burns.
Such skin lacks
regenerating cells and will not heal well after chemical treatment.
A person with poor nutritional status could suffer delay or complications
in the healing process
and should avoid any type of chemical peel.
If your problem is sagging facial skin and/or deep wrinkles, a
chemical peel will not get rid of
these for you. Your procedure of choice should be a face lift (which
will excise excess skin and smooth out deep wrinkles), followed
by a peel to improve shallow lines and wrinkles that still endure.
YOUR
CHOICE OF PEELS
Depending
on the condition of your skin, and the results you're looking for, you have
a choice of three kinds of chemical peels:
I.
The Phenol Peel known as the deep peel, uses phenol as the active ingredient
in a chemical mixture that penetrates not only the skin's superficial upper
layer (the epidermis) but also the topmost layer of the lower-lying dermis.
The chemical penetrates to a depth of 0.3 to 0.4 mm, producing first- and second-degree
burns.
The
phenol peel has been used by surgeons - with varying degrees of success and
disaster - since the early 1900s.
The
burning action of the phenol is self-limited by the fact that, as it penetrates,
the acid combines with proteins in the skin and coagulates to form a barrier
that prevents deeper penetration. It is this barrier, therefore, that prevents
third-degree burns from occurring. (When phenol is diluted, it is absorbed all
too soon by the skin before perfect coagulation has taken place. Thus, dilution
increases the danger of adverse reactions.)
The
acid is applied usually under a sedative or a general anaesthetic (if the patient
is anxious or nervy).
The
application, using a cotton applicator or brush, is done slowly and deliberately
to avoid too much of the phenol being absorbed too rapidly by the skin.
As the skin is stroked lightly with the chemical solution, it first blanches
and then becomes red and swollen. The sharp, stinging sensation that the patient
initially feels disappears in minutes since the phenol itself has an anaesthetic
effect.
After
the application is complete, the surgeon may use a mask of adhesive tape over
the entire treated area; the purpose is to delay drying, thus prolonging the
period of action of the chemical.
Six to eight hours after the tape mask has been applied, the face becomes swollen,
the eyelids frequently swell shut. This is expected and is relieved with cold
compresses. The pain lasts for the first several hours after the application,
and is treated with painkillers.
For
the first 48 hours after the chemi-peel, the patient is instructed to remain
in bed resting, keeping his face as immobile as possible in order not to disturb
the tape mask and the underlying burn.
After 24 hours, some fluid may seep from beneath the mask. The swelling is constant,
and somewhat frightening - even horrific - at this stage.
After
48 hours, the tapes, carrying on their undersurface much of the dead outer layer
of skin, are removed. This is naturally painful, and the patient requires the
use of a sedative/analgesic beforehand. Removing the tape mask exposes the new
skin underneath - raw, tender and red. Its surface resembles that of a second-degree
burn. The new skin is dusted with an antiseptic powder, which helps to form
a caked crust. After three to six days, during which the powder applications
are repeated, a skin ointment is applied over the crust to soften it and hasten
its separation from the face. Approximately seven days after the peel, the entire
crust falls away with a gentle washing with soap and water. Many physicians
at this stage use a steroid cream to reduce inflammation and soften the treated
area.
The
newly-formed skin will be bright pink and abnormally sensitive to ordinary stimuli;
it must be kept moist with a skin cream or oil, or else it will dry and crack.
But two weeks after the peel, the patient can start using light make-up. By
the end of the first month, the pinkness about the face begins to recede noticeably.
The skin texture returns to normal, and at the end of three months both colour
and quality of the skin should be close to normal. Until this happens, however,
the patient is committed to using face make-up.
The
primary effect of the deep peel seems to be its action in realigning the loose,
wavy collagen fibres of aging skin into compact, parallel strands. The dermis
increases in bulk, strengthening the structural support of the skin. And blood
supply to the treated area increases. The 'new and improved' cosmetic effect
peaks in three to six months.
POST-PEEL
PRECAUTIONS
It
is important to maintain certain precautions for upto six months following a
deep skin peel:
I.) Since the peelant removes a great deal of the melanin (pigment) in
the skin, a large amount of the skin's protection against the sun's rays has
been lost. The peeled patient is therefore advised to avoid sunlight for at
least six months, especially the mid-day sun, to wear protective headgear, and
a suitable sun block. Exposure to the sun can cause permanent dark patches to
develop.
For
the same reason, you'll have to avoid using birth control pills, estrogen or
the photosensitizing drugs such as the antibiotic tetracycline. And women who've
had peels must avoid getting pregnant.
Patches that develop if the above don'ts are ignored usually show up in the
first six months after the peel, but they can develop at any time.
II.) Trichloracetic acid (TCA) Peels brush the skin with a mixture of
trichloracetic acid and a bleaching agent. The procedure takes about five minutes.
This is a "superficial" peel, in contrast to the "deep peel"
(phenol).
The
strength of the acid must be carefully controlled; in strong concentrations,
TCA carries a higher risk of scarring than a phe nol peel.
Depending on the condition of your skin, you may need just one TCA peel, or
several, six to eight weeks apart.
III.) The Glycolic Acid Peel is the most recent entrant into the field
of chemical peels. Because it is a "light peel" that attacks only
the top few layers of skin, it's growing in popularity as a rejuvenation agent
for not just the face but as a shoulder-to-shin peel - the so-called 'whole-body
peel'. Its milder action means that it has fewer of the irritating side-effects
and recovery time of the deeper peels -- phenol and TCA. But it also means that
its cosmetic benefits are far less dramatic - it's more like a "freshening"
peel that reduces fine wrinkling, coarseness and blotchiness.
The
glycolic peel uses glycolic acid, a mild-mannered substance derived from sugarcane.
(This is the same substance that is used in the so-called AHA - alpha-hydroxy
acid - skin creams, only the peel uses a much stronger concentration and therefore
produces quicker, more effective results).
The
strength of the glycolic peel is also likely to vary, depending on whether you
do it at a beauty salon, or at a dermatologist's or cosmetic surgeon's office.
The salon-strength exfoliation is likely to use a 25 to 30% concentration of
glycolic acid which doesn't do much for deep wrinkling and pigmentation problems.
The doctor-administered peel will use a 50 to 70% concentration, under anaesthesia.
But
both, salon and physician peels, are usually recommended in a series of at least
four, with follow-ups every two weeks until you're satisfied with the results.
If
you're tempted by the prospect of an unlined face but abhor the very idea of
a chemical touching your face, there's now the laser peel, touted by some as
the least risky.
FOR
BEST RESULTS
A
chemical peel need not always be done on the entire face. You may decide to
treat only certain areas, such as dark patches, circles around the eyes or pigment
patches. But the application must not be done in hotchpotch fashion; this could
cause a visible demarcation between treated and untreated areas. Because the
new skin matures to a colour paler than that of unpeeled skin, if you treated,
say, only the skin around the eyes and mouth, you could end up looking like
a panda.
Best
results, especially with the deeper peels, are obtained on the face. This is
because of the rich blood supply to this area and the abundantly regenerative
powers of the dermis. A deep-peel treatment on the neck or limbs is more likely
to result in scarring.
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Both, deep and superficial
peels are used to remove uneven pigmentation or (in fair-skinned people with
sun-damaged skin) to remove pre-cancerous patches. But the vast majorities are
done to erase wrinkles. Reputable practitioners however usually reserve deep
peels for septuagenarians with substantial wrinkling.
THE
COMPLICATIONS OF THE CHEMO-PEEL
Chemical
peels can have very good results on the right patient by the right physician.
But - even done correctly - they aren't quick and easy makeovers. In the wrong
hands such as those of someone who doesn't know the complications that can arise
when you paint something as corrosive as lye on a face, peels can be quite dangerous.
The
complications of a chemical peel are much the same as those associated with
a partial thickness burn:
A
minor risk is that, if the oil-secreting sebaceous glands are blocked as a result
of the procedure, multiple tiny white spots appear after two to three weeks;
these are cleared by lightly rubbing the affected area with a soft brush dipped
in soap and water.
l
A more serious effect is hypo-pigmentation or loss of pigment, because of the
destruction of the skin's pigment cells (melanocytes) by the chemicals. This
is generally irreversible, although the whitened areas can, of course, be camouflaged
with make-up.
l
If the face wasn't cleaned evenly and well beforehand, the chemicals may penetrate
more in some places than in others, causing blotchiness
l
Swabbed over a closed eyelid, the chemicals have in some cases, eaten through
to the cornea, causing distorted vision, but this is extremely rare.
l
If too much of the chemical was applied, causing deep burns, the skin will heal
by scarring and possibly cause distortion of adjacent structures such as the
eyelids or lips.
The chemicals used in chemotherapy can produce multiple hypertrophic (raised)
scars. In a 1990 U.S. survey of 5888 plastic surgeons, 21 per cent reported
that phenol scarred significantly, especially around the mouth and chin.
To
soften the scarring, steroid injections or dermal abrasion may be attempted.
(See the chapter, "More Wrinkle Erasers"). But true deformities caused
by chemical burns may call for plastic surgery corrections, including skin grafts.
l
Phenol toxicity is the most serious complication of the chemical peel. It can
range from renal (kidney) and liver damage to poisoning of the medullary (brain)
centres and cardiac muscles, which is characterised by vasomotor collapse, convulsions,
respiratory failure, and ultimate death if not aggressively treated.
THE
LASER PEEL
The
newest and reasonably risky - peel uses not a chemical but bursts of laser energy
lasting less than a thousandth of a second to vaporize surface skin.
Some
of its users claim that the chief advantage of the Ultra Pulse Laser, as it
is called, is control. Laser energy, they say, can be more precisely adjusted
than chemicals that are brushed on. As a result, they report, they virtually
never see the skin lightening or discoloration that is one of the possible adverse
effects of a chemical peel.
Of
course, such a happy outcome is most likely to be obtained from a practitioner
experienced in the use of the Ultra Pulse Laser which has been available only
since 1993. And of course any doctor can legally buy a laser and do peels, so
make sure your physician has had formal training in the procedure and has done
at least a dozen operations.
There
is disagreement on whether recovery time in a laser peel is shorter, or longer,
than in a chemical peel. And, of course, with either procedure, tanning remains
a possibility during the healing period. So the skin must be protected during
those 16 or so weeks with a sunscreen lotion.
LET
THE CLIENT BEWARE
Because of the many problems
involved in handling unpredictable caustic chemicals on the face, chemosurgery
should be performed only by a dermatologist (skin specialist) or a cosmetic
surgeon who is well aware of the possible risks. Both, phenol and TCA, can cause
complications ranging from mild discoloration to grotesque and irreversible
scarring of the skin of the face and neck. Catastrophic chemical burns have
occurred when this type of treatment has been performed by unqualified or inexperienced
non-medical "specialists", such as so-called cosmetologists.
Before
you put yourself in his hands, make sure of your doctor's training and ability
to do chemosurgery; peels should be a major part of his practice, not just a
sidelight.
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The
Chemical Peel
"If God Wanted To Give A Woman Wrinkles, He Could At Least Have
Put Them In The Soles Of Her Feet" -
NINON DE LENCLOS
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